Introduction
The instructions below are offered free of charge
and are without warrantee of any kind. I have executed these
modifications on my bike with very favorable results, however, I have no
knowledge of your bikes condition relative to modifications you might
have made or factory supplied variations that I am not aware of. Any of
these possible changes could render this installation dangerous. The
bike I have fitted this to is a 2003 model RST1000. Use this device at
your own risk. You bear all responsibility for safety testing your
installation and safe operation of your bike. Be sure to read and
follow the precautions listed in the Precautions section at the
end of this document. Failure to follow the precautions listed will
increase your likelihood of a sudden total power loss on your bike while
riding. This unintentional shutting down of the engine could cause
severe injury or even death depending on the circumstances. Read
these instructions completely before you begin this project.
Materials Required
The following is a list
of the materials required to complete the wiring job.
- Crimp wire splices (available at Radio Shack)
- Zip ties (7 should be sufficient)
- Velcro hook and loop with adhesive back (Use the high shear
available at Radio Shack)
- Thor Alarm system with remote
- Omron off delay timer (Grainger Catalog number 1A983 OMRON
H3CA 1/16 DIN, Digital-Set, Solid State
Timer )
- Socket base for timer (Grainger Catalog number 6X156)
- Electrical tape
- Solder (with resin core)
- 12 volt automotive relay (available at radio shack with 30 amp
contacts)
- Wire
Tools Required
·
Wire cutters
·
Pliers
·
Knife
·
DC voltage tester
·
Phillips screwdriver
·
Standard screwdriver
·
Metric Allen wrenches
·
Soldering gun
Disassembly of the instrument panel


First
remove the fuse box cover.


Then
remove the outer windscreen supports


Next pull
of the left and right instrument panel covers.

The instrument cluster comes off with 4 screws
two at the top shown here and the two that were holding the fuse cover
on that you removed in the first step of disassembly. The Fuse cover
has two small silver bushings under it. Be sure to not lose these. I
found mine fell out easily when I removed the instrument panel.

Pull the
covers off of the electrical plugs on the back of the instrument panel.
And then remove the plugs while squeezing the clips in.
Pre-Wiring the timer with the automotive relay attached as shown
You must solder all connections to the automotive
relay. All wires attached to the relay base with screws should have the
wire ends stripped no more than 3/8” and then soldered to prevent
fraying.
1.
Jumper from pin 2 to pin 11. The brown wire from the alarm will
attach to 2.
2.
Pin 10 to ground wire with line 86 from the automotive relay.
3.
Red and Yellow Engine start line will splice to a line attached
to pin 9.
4.
Automotive relay terminal 30 will attach to pin 3.
5.
Automotive relay terminal 87 will attach to pin 6
6.
Set timer to (D 015 [0.1sec]) my photo shows 013 but I feel this
is not quite enough for cold starts.
7.
The blue wire from the alarm/remote start will attach to line 85
of the automotive relay.

The automotive relay (attached to the side) is
needed to give the timer relay it’s initialization signal. When the
timer sees a momentary connection of pin 6 to pin 3 it starts the timing
function on the 12 volt output through pin 9. This is the start signal
to the starter solenoid on the Rotax engine. There are no open sets of
contacts on the alarm system that operate momentarily like a starter
button. The automotive relay takes the starter signal from the remote
and uses it (through the automotive relay) to close the connection (pin
6 to pin 3) and start the timer. The timer then sends the starter relay
on the bike it’s starting signal of 1.5 seconds duration through pin 9.
I use 1.3 seconds on my bike but I have trouble starting in weather
colder than 38 degrees. I think the 1.5 second setting will not have
this problem. The placement of the relay on the bike makes it possible
(but not easy) to adjust this after assembly. Notice the two Velcro
pads on the relay. They are used to hold the relay in position in the
left side of the front faring as shown below. I really wanted to get
some of the higher shear Velcro double hook that Radio Shack sells.
However, this is doing a good job so far and I think it will do fine in
the long run. I put the base to the inside and have the display and
buttons on the outside where I can’t get to them very well. This is
necessary due to the size of the base on the relay. You might be able
to modify this in some way to make the adjustment easier without
disassembly of the panel. Be sure to verify that nothing interferes
with your steering.

Wiring the bike

The siren (round red object) has adhesive backing.
Place it on top of the main alarm box on the surface shown in this
photograph. The main alarm box has adhesive backing as well. Place
this on the inside right side of the faring with the antennae wire
closest to the right rear view mirror support. You will want to put the
antennae wire into this mirror support so you can gain greater distance
for your signal.

The photo
above shows some of the connections needed to complete the wiring. You
can use this to verify some of your connection locations. Notice the
location of the alarm control box with the 125db speaker.

Next is a modified schematic of the Futura showing
all the needed connections for this modification. Use the schematic in
the back of your owners manual for comparisons and the color code
chart. Remember all wiring is done in the front faring.

Here is a rather redundant rundown of the
connections on the base of the timer relay by pin.
1.
Not used
2.
Alarm Brown wire & Yellow ignition switch wire and a jumper to
pin 11
3.
Wire from Automotive relay pin 30
4.
not used
5.
not used
6.
Wire from Automotive relay pin 87
7.
not used
8.
not used
9.
Wire to the Red and Yellow start button circuit
10.
Wire from Automotive relay pin 86 and a wire to a solid ground
point on the bike (see photo below for ground attachment point)
11.
Jumper to pin 2
Here is a list of connections for
the bottom of the automotive relay
·
Pin 85 is soldered to
the blue wire coming from the alarm/remote start device.
·
Pin 86 is connected to pin 10 (ground) of the timer off
delay relay.
·
Pin 30 is connected to pin 3 of the timer off delay relay
·
Pin 87 is connected to pin 6 of the timer off delay relay

The black ground wire from the alarm/remote start
device has a large diameter crimp fitting on it. It fits nicely between
the clip-on nut and metal bracket for the upper right instrument cluster
mount.
Testing
The main concern here is that all loose wires are
tied up but not put into a bind when the steering is moved full left to
full right. All wires not attached at the relay should be either
connected with the crimp type splices or with soldered connection. All
bare wires and cut wire ends should be taped with electrical tape. You
will not need to plug the instrument panel back in to test the alarm and
remote start.
Using the remote, test the following functions and
verify the correct results.
Button
Resulting action
Center LOCK button.
Lights flash once and
siren chirps
Movement of the bike sets off alarm
Upper left UNLOCK
button Lights flash twice, siren
chirps twice
Bike can now be moved
Upper right BELL
button Bike flashes and
chips until unlock is
Pressed
Lightning bolt
button Press twice
within 3 seconds to start
The engine. Unlock shuts it off.
Re-Assembly
If I need much of an explanation here you probably
should not have started this project in the first place. Put it all
back in the reverse order of the disassembly instructions.
Precautions for the remote start
Never operate the motorcycle with the pendant
control inside your pocket. Always place the pendant outside of a coat
pocket away from potential impact that might press a button. Pressing
the Un-lock button will stop the engine immediately. Pressing the Alarm
activate button will set off the alarm and kill the engine a few seconds
later. Pressing the find function will sound the alarm and start the
turn indicator lights flashing and mislead other drivers as to your
intentions. Any of these results at the wrong time could cause you
severe injury or even death. The use of a pocket with a zipper to close
in the keys while letting the pendant hang clear of potential impact
areas is one possible way to control this. In any case, use these
products and instructions at your own risk. One side effect of this
installation is the parking light position on the key switch will
operate as an ignition switch position and should not be used. The
change was necessary to allow for keyless driving at night. Without
this change the tail light does not come on when driving keyless. Be
sure to keep a set of keys with you to allow for locking of the steering
and access to the fuel tank for fill ups. Always wear a DOT approved
helmet and leather outer garments. Take a motorcycle safety training
course. Don’t ride in the rain. Don’t ride in the wind. Don’t ride on
a sidewalk. Don’t ride on a street. Stay off the grass. Stay out of
the dirt. Don’t go outside. Ok, I think that about does it. OH! And
if you don’t stop that you’ll go blind!
Have fun with this neat modification. You’ll
appreciate the attention it gets!
Bob Davis
General Manager/Owner
Modern Die Systems Inc.
Elwood, IN 46036
Bob.davis@moderndiesystems.com
ß be sure to put Aprilia in
the subject of any E-mail